Detour Türkiye: South-east
Ever wondered what it's like to take a detour through Türkiye?
South-eastern Anatolia has been a crossroads of civilisations for millennia.
With landscapes defined by its rugged mountains, vast plains and deep canyons and its cities melding ancient influences and modern ambition, it's an endlessly inspiring destination that rewards adventurous travellers.
Join us on a south-east Turkish adventure, across cuisine and archeological wonders.
Scaling historic heights in south-eastern Türkiye
Framed by the Tigris and Euphrates rivers and shaped by majestic mountains, wide plains and deep canyons, south-eastern Türkiye is a hidden gem for nature lovers. We follow archaeologist Kahraman Yagız and associate professor Mustafa Çoşkun at Adıyaman University – up Mount Nemrut for a fascinating detour on this storied region.
The Taurus Mountains and the Mesopotamian plains form striking contrasts within a landscape that feels distinct from the rest of the country. "For those who love nature and want to discover something different, this region is a place visitors really enjoy," says Mustafa Çoşkun, an associate professor at Adıyaman University. "Every corner feels like a hidden secret waiting to welcome you with open arms – it's perfect for hiking, camping and watching wildlife in their natural habitat."
While many options exist for immersion in the great outdoors, Mount Nemrut is a particularly compelling destination for hiking, promising spectacular sunrises and sunsets over ancient ruins, set against the backdrop of the Euphrates River and the Taurus Mountains. "This is not just a nature hike – it's also a journey into the past," says archaeologist Kahraman Yagız, Çoşkun's compatriot at Adıyaman University. "You'll likely follow the same walking route once used by the people of the Kingdom of Commagene some 2,100 years ago as you ascend to the summit. There, in this Unesco World Heritage Site, you'll reach the hierothesion (sacred tomb site) of King Antiochus I, and take in the mystery and ceremonial atmosphere that the king himself once commanded to be celebrated."
Elsewhere, Yagız recommends another detour for adventurous travellers – the Kızılin Valley in Adıyaman. "Here, the steep cliffs rising on both sides of the Göksu Stream – which flows into the Euphrates River – and the ancient settlements carved into these rocks offer a unique opportunity to experience both history and nature together," he says. One of the best ways to experience the Kızılin Valley's is on a boat tour, which Yagiz likens to exploring another planet – an apt metaphor for a region whose striking, otherworldly landscapes are sure to linger long in the memory.
From Gaziantep to the world
At Türkiye's south-eastern extent, Gaziantep – or Antep, as it's known to locals – is one of world's oldest inhabited cities. Whether sampled in its broad range of baklava and bulgur-wheat dishes or distinctive varieties of kebabs, it's also an undisputed culinary heavyweight. A central location on the Silk Road has helped crystallise a charismatic food culture that melds Arab Middle Eastern, Central Asian and Turkish Anatolian influences – recognised by Unesco, which designated it 'Creative City of Gastronomy' in 2015.
The Gaziantep-born culinary consultant, writer and filmmaker Filiz Hosukoglu was part of the team that drew Unesco's eyes to the city, and she compels you to try standout local produce as lamb, firik (freekeh) pistachio, pomegranate molasses, red pepper flakes and the ubiquitous bulgur wheat. "İçli Köfte is a staple, prepared with fine grain bulgur, onion, minced lamb and spices," she says. "With bulgur being such a staple, it's interesting to see how creative the cook is to use the same ingredient and produce different results."
Kebabs are of course a main event, with lamb coming cubed and skewered or minced with eggplant, tomatoes, loquat or sour apples, with local truffles (called keme) or spring garlic heads, depending on the time of year.
“It is amazing to witness how the taste of lamb is in harmony with the seasonal ingredients.”
In many ways, the Unesco recognition has shown the world Gazientep's commitment to cooking in a more sustainable way. Some locals use foraged greens and solar energy to dry vegetables and apply a zero-waste approach. Filiz says that being known as a Creative City of Gastronomy has also helped Gaziantep preserve its cuisine and has already witnessed local food producers, restaurant owners and chefs placing greater emphasis on quality and authenticity.
She recommends tracking down local bakeries, which – as well as selling lavash bread, tray-baked kebabs and lahmacun (crispy flatbread with a range of toppings) – double as community hubs. "As home cooking is deeply personal, it offers a truly special experience," she says. "Although all rooted in tradition, it's a wonderful opportunity to observe the subtle differences and personal touches that make each meal so memorable."
A journey to the turning point of civilisation
With a history that dates back to the earliest stages of human civilisation, a trip to south-eastern Türkiye guarantees to be a trip for the ages. Sitting at the edge of the Roman Empire and at the heart of the Ottoman and Seljuk empires and informed by multicultural traditions, the region plays host to many ancient cities, stunning landscapes and a wealth of Unesco World Heritage Sites – making it an essential detour for the culturally curious.
In its largest city, Gaziantep, lose yourself among the streets of the historic old town, which remains a striking showcase of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. Reflecting another period on the city's history, the Zeugma Museum is a mesmerising must-visit, housing some of the world's best preserved Roman mosaics, including the breathtaking Gypsy Girl. Elsewhere, the historic cities of Mardin, Diyarbakır and Sanliurfa each offer distinct insights into the region's compelling past, combining ancient ruins and awe-inspiring architecture.
Yet perhaps the site with the greatest cultural clout is Unesco World Heritage list star, Göbeklitepe. A short drive north-east of Şanlıurfa, this Neolithic worship site challenged conventional thinking around the development of humankind upon its rediscovery in 1994. Thought to be about 11,000 years old, this stunning site is the earliest human made monumental structure ever found, comprising of a collection of towering carved pillars, circular stone enclosures with evidence of year-round settlement, suggesting a turning point in our existence from a nomadic to a sedentary life. With only 5% already excavated, it's a destination with a back story that – much like the region as a whole – is only just beginning to be better understood.
"Can you see the animal carvings on the excavations?"
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Go Türkiye
The essence of Türkiye can be found on a detour to south-eastern Anatolia. Food, history and adventure lovers rejoice for this region of Türkiye has it all. From culinary classics in Gaziantep, to hiking up Mount Nemrut where history is larger than life, you can feel Turkish culture everywhere, beyond the crowds on the beach. Check out your next Türkiye adventure, in south-eastern Anatolia.
