Detour Türkiye: Aegean
Türkiye's sun-kissed Aegean region has played a pivotal role within a host of ancient civilisations, contributing to a rich, multilayered culture and a wealth of historic sights.
Add in a food scene focused on world-class produce and a dramatic coastline overlooking turquoise waters and it's easy to understand its ageless appeal.
Let's enjoy an Aegean detour, with local experts who share their insider guide to the country's stunning south-west.
Slow food and sensational produce
Turkish dishes tend to travel well, transcending language barriers to find flavour in Turkish restaurants and kebab shops the world over. But according to Osman Sezener, the İzmir-born chef with three Michelin stars across three restaurants, the region has a tendency to surprise beyond the traditional in both dishes and diversity. "Many visitors arrive expecting rich, spice-laden dishes, but what they discover is a cuisine that is light, herbaceous, and refreshingly simple," says Sezener.
What sets the Aegean cuisine apart, says Sezener, is its use of first-class olive oil and foraged wild flora. Depending on the season, expect to find rezene (wild fennel), hindiba (chicory) and semizotu (purslane) complementing staples such as tarhana, black-eyed peas and sun-dried tomatoes in a vivid showcase of the region's agricultural heritage. Elsewhere, unforgettable expressions of the local palate exist in dishes including zeytinyağlı enginar (artichokes braised in olive oil), kabak çiçeği dolması (stuffed courgette flowers) and grilled fish, served simply with sea salt and lemon.
“The food culture here is deeply tied to the rhythm of nature and the sea – people here have always lived in harmony with their environment.”
As the founder of the Od Urla in İzmir and Kitchen in Bodrum, Sezener is a pioneer of Türkiye's farm-to-fork movement. He adds that the Aegean's most memorable food experiences are not found in high-end restaurants but rather village homes, roadside stalls and köy pazarı (village markets). "Places such as Seferihisar, Karaburun or Bademler are full of hidden culinary gems – family-run eateries where grandmothers still cook by feel, without written recipes," he says, continuing to highlight the region's underrated wine scene. Take, for example Urla, where a 6,000-year-old wine tradition can be sampled along the Urla Wine Route, which plays out across a series of chateau-style wineries, boutique hotels and vineyards specialising in indigenous grapes like Bornova Misketi, Sultaniye and Boğazkere. "Sitting on a terrace at sunset, sipping local wine paired with olive oil and Tulum cheese, encapsulates everything we're about here," says Sezener, "Flavour, place and a sense of peace."
Catching the breeze
As well as incredible cuisine, the Aegean is also home to some stunning scenery – turquoise waters and mild winters, it's little surprise that Türkiye's Aegean region is a playground for adventure lovers. Within the borders of Manisa, the Kula-Salihli Unesco Global Geopark offers excellent hiking, cycle routes hug the coastline and an abundance of hidden coves and bays are a playground for watersports lovers. "It's a place that really pulls you outside," says freestyle kitesurf champion and instructor Pinar Başoğlu. "As soon as you get outside the big cities, you'll see how much life happens outdoors. It's totally normal to see someone windsurfing in the morning and working in their vineyard in the afternoon."
Among the vineyards, olive groves and pine forests west of Izmir, Urla remains relatively undiscovered – and it's here that Başoğlu has created a laidback kitesurfing haven. Opened by Başoğlu and her partner in 2015, the Urla Surf House offers guests tuition and access to both a calm lagoon and the Aegean Sea. The Urla Surf House embodies the region's spirit; it's open, inviting, and hosts gigs and events to bring the community together. "With steady winds, warm water and a long kiting season, the conditions are amazing," says Başoğlu. "Sunsets are long and golden and, on full moon nights, the moon rises right over the water and lights everything up in silver."
Away from the water, there's plenty worth exploring, with Urla's many family-run vineyards scenic hiking spots as harvest approaches in late summer and autumn. To the north lies the wild and untouched Karaburun Peninsula, whose coastal road delivers quiet coves, beautiful cliffs and amazing views. Başoğlu also recommends exploring the hidden restaurants in and around Urla's town centre. "Some are tucked into stone streets or in village gardens, and they serve incredible local food, often straight from their own land," she says. "It's a peaceful, authentic side of the Aegean that a lot of people miss."
An immersive journey back in time
Known for world-renowned ancient settlements – including Ephesus, Priene and Pergamon – the Aegean has been at the heart of some of history's great civilisations, from the Minoans and Mycenians to the Ionians, Carians, Romans and Ottomans – each leaving a resounding influence on the region's identity. For Mehmet Cabuk, a professional tour guide, the Aegean's easily accessible coastline and harbours have facilitated a two-way cultural exchange that continues to this day. "History has helped create a diverse, extrovert and cosmopolitan culture of many layers here," he says. "We've witnessed continuity from one civilisation to another in unique ways where today's music, folk dances, cuisine and lifestyle still bear great parallels with what they were in the ancient ages."
After seeking out its blockbuster ancient cities, Cabuk recommends heading off the beaten track to witness this interplay of ancient Ionian influence at its best. "In modern day Turkish villages like Kapıkırı (Herakleia) Ildır (Erythrai) and Eskihisar (Stratonikea – a Carian city) you can explore ancient history, through theatres, agoras and temples literally scattered between houses and barns where life has persevered for nearly 3,000 years on the same spot," he says.
Old town markets such as Milas, Tire or Bergama still showcase old masters of guilds that hand-produce ancient crafts like horse-shoes, felt tapestries and handwoven baskets, while, further afield, 7,000-year-old Neolithic cave paintings can be found in the mountains rising over Lake Bafa.
In this region you can experience the Ionian Route extending through the captivating districts of Foça, Çeşme, Urla, Seferihisar, Menderes, Selçuk, Söke, Didim, and Kuşadası – each destination offering a unique window into the past while celebrating the vibrant culture of modern-day Türkiye.
The Aegean's rich, multilayered history refuses to stand still, instead playing out in daily life that's dynamic and diverse – ensuring it's a detour that promises something for every kind of traveller.
“The Aegean has witnessed continuity from one civilisation to another in unique ways where today's music, folk dances, cuisine and lifestyle still bear great parallels with what they were in the ancient ages.”
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Go Türkiye
Türkiye is known for its breathtaking beaches and mouth-watering kebabs… but did you know it's also a hub of ancient histories, produce and wine – and home to Michelin-star cuisine that surprises and delights? Look no further than Türkiye's Aegean. Feel the wind in your hair as you kitesurf the Aegean coast, taste the flavours of Türkiye in Urla and go back in time through ancient cities and temples. Discover more of Türkiye on a detour across the Aegean.
