FRENCH JOURNEY - PROGRAMME 2

France is a country of big contrasts: from its old romantic cities to its modern urban developments; from its mountain peaks and its chateaux in ruins to its blue wild seaside. Our guide for this exciting journey is Wendy Robbins, an Englishwoman who's passionate about French life. David Lowe is also a conoisseur, for who the passion for France is such that he moved there. Come along and join Wendy and David in a journey full of emotion and discovery.

TOULOUSE - ZEBDA  

Toulouse looks like a pleasant country town, yet it’s France’s fourth largest city. Its homely appearance comes from its red brick, which has given it the nickname ‘Pink City'.

The basilica of St Sernin - the centrepiece of the city - is built in the trademark red brick, just like this huge fortress of a church, Les Jacobins - an impressive piece of French Gothic. Its graceful interior, with pillars in the shape of palm trees, is an unexpected haven of peace. The church was founded by Dominican monks, and the philosopher St Thomas Aquinas is buried here.

Toulouse’s city hall - Le Capitole - is the best known red-brick building. This square is at the very heart of the city - a cultural crossroads and one of France’s liveliest city centres. But it’s not just the bricks here that are pink - there’s always been a pinkish shade to Toulouse’s politics too.

And nobody embodies this rebellious Toulousain spirit better than a home-grown group of musicians who have taken France by storm. They’re called Zebda.

Wendy:  What does Toulouse mean to you?

Zebda member 1:  Toulouse, for me, is the place where I was born.  It's the town my parents came to, from Algeria, to work.  In all, it's a town that’s not too big, not too small, and where you know all the nooks and crannies - where things are happening - places for sport, dancing, talking, exchanging ideas and meeting people.  So it's like a house, where you know nearly every single room.  

Zebda member 2:   By living here, if you want, we really feel like participants in this town.  We want to share in the social and cultural life of this town.  That's to say, to try and participate in social life, and give our vision of things on social and cultural topics.

Many of Zebda’s songs are about the city itself, focusing on street life and the cultural melting pot.   Zebda’s Toulouse isn’t that of the picture postcard, but a complex place of contrasts and contradictions.

Zebda member 2:  There are seven of us in the group and that's seven of us with very different influences.  They come from Reggae, Rock, Ragga and traditional local music.  It comes from the French chanson, which means the text is very important.
I'd say it's the basis on which we introduce the melody, arrangement and orchestration.  It ends up becoming a French chanson that's energetic, joyful, positive and at times a bit nervy.  

Zebda member 2:  There are lots of things that make us angry, of course, every day. But this anger we want to express in a happy fashion too. That's what brings that aspect we particularly like, that sense of party and feeling like partying. That's to say, to bring out something that's also positive, a positive energy.

Zebda member 1:  I wouldn't change my childhood for anything.  I lived on the streets, free - playing football with my friends, running everywhere, eating fruit - cherries, because that's Toulouse too - the land.  It's quality of life.  This is our message.  It's everything that's negative and difficult alongside everything that's beautiful, alive and human.  We want to express this at all costs.

Copyright BBC 2000