FRENCH JOURNEY -  PROGRAMME 1

France is a country of big contrasts: from its old romantic cities to its modern urban developments; from its mountain peaks and its chateaux in ruins to its wild coasts. Our guide for this exciting journey is Wendy Robbins, an Englishwoman who's passionate about French life. David Lowe is also a connoisseur, for whom the passion for France is such that he moved there. Come along and join Wendy and David in a journey full of emotion and discovery.

LYONS - OLD TOWN

Everything about France’s second largest city is on a grand scale. Right in its heart lies one of the biggest squares in Europe - la Place Bellecour. In the centre of the square stands a statue to Louis XIV, perhaps France’s most powerful monarch. The imposing Basilique de Fourviere nonetheless dominates, a monument which has –perhaps unkindly - been described as a wedding cake. But its past is full of legend and mystery. Wendy climbed the full 400 steps from the centre of town to find out more from guide Jean-Luc Chavent.

Wendy:  Why was the basilica built?

Jean-Luc Chavent:  There was a chapel here in the 12th century And in the 19th century, war was declared against the Prussians and the people of Lyon said, 'If Lyon is invaded, we're lost'.  So they prayed to the Virgin Mary promising to build a big church if Lyon was spared.  Lyon wasn't invaded, so the people kept their word, and gave money to build this basilica, so they could see the symbol of the Virgin Mary on top of Mary's Hill.

The long climb up to the church is rewarded by the spectacular interior. The nave is adorned with mosaics, carvings and stained glass - each one depicting a story.

The basilica was built by the architect Pierre Bossan - whose extraordinary vision united Roman, Gothic and Byzantine styles in a bewitching combination.

Bossan was an atheist but during the church’s construction he became convinced of God’s existence and converted to Catholicism. He used to pray in a secret hideaway up in one of the towers.

Jean-Luc Chavent:  Here we are in the room we call the architect's room.  It's a secret place, nobody was allowed in.  He came to be alone and pray.  However, he fell ill - he was about 70.  He left to go to La Ciotat in the south of France.  He lived alone, as a hermit, and died completely alone.

The top of the basilica offers the best view in Lyon. From here you can see why the Romans made this city - on its two great rivers - the capital of the Gauls.

Jean-Luc Chavent:  That green line over there is the Rhône, and down here is the Saône.  The tall tower is called the pencil, that's the new quarter, La Part-Dieu.  And this area below is old Lyon, which we're going to visit.

The medieval heart of Lyon is crammed alongside the banks of the River Saone. Trade fairs were held here in the fifteenth century and merchants came from all over Europe to buy glass, paper and - most of all - silk.

Many of the silk merchants at the time were Italian and they brought with them architectural styles and colours that captivated the more sober Lyonnais.

Jean-Luc Chavent:   They changed everything.  Thanks to them, business boomed and the houses became more opulent. And as more people arrived from across the Alps, they smartened everything up and gave the town of Lyon a southern feel.

In their thriving city, the Lyonnais found ingenious ways of saving space. There are more than 300 small tunnels - called traboules - that take you from one street to another right underneath the buildings.

Jean-Luc Chavent:  You haven't seen the best part yet.  

Wendy:  Oh, really?

Jean-Luc Chavent:   Turn round.  That's the Pink Tower,the highest tower in the district. 

Wendy:  It's lovely.

Jean-Luc Chavent:  It's a corner of paradise in the heart of Lyon.

The traboules have witnessed many historical events.  Over the centuries they have been used for all sorts of things - they’ve protected weavers carrying silk; they’ve sheltered Resistance fighters during the war. 

Wendy:  What does 'traboule' mean?

Jean-Luc Chavent:  It comes from 'transambulare' - to walk through.  This is one of the main courtyards which divides the traboules in two.  And always these galleries, linking every part of the building. 

Wendy:  That's really amazing.

Today, these charming passageways are a great way to delve into Lyon’s past.

Jean-Luc Chavent:   That's it, the end of the traboules and we've come out in to one of the parallel streets of old Lyon.

Wendy:  That's unbelievable!  I love the traboules.

Copyright BBC 2000.